The Buisson-Charles 2007 Meursault Les Boucheres – whose seven barrels represent nearly a doubling of production – displays honeyed richness to accompany its creaminess of texture. Lightly toasted wheat, hazelnut and almond; fresh peach; and elusive floral essences and mineral shadings combine for a ravishing aromatic display, caressing palate, and refined, nuanced, and hauntingly long finish. This plays more to the soothing, seductive side of Meursault, and less in the direction of dynamics one finds in the Gouttes d’Or. I expect it, too, to be well worth following for a dozen or more years. Catherine and Patrick Essa’s new reception, crush, and storage facilities are now completed and they have expanded through control of significant additional acreage in Les Boucheres and Gouttes d’Or. Patrick Essa's approach (like that of his father-in-law Michel Buisson) seemed ideal for restraining any over-the-top tendencies of vintage 2006, but the 2007s here are also very successful, if slightly less obviously imposing. Readers are encouraged to consult my report in issue 180 for further details on the approach taken at this under-rated estate that produces consistently age-worthy Meursault. A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29; also imported by Scott Paul Wines, Carlton, OR; tel. (503) 852 7300