From vines planted in 1928 in the Combe d'Orveaux section of that cru, Philippe Charlopin's 2006 Echezeaux features cooked dark cherries and chocolate (common themes, by now needless to say, at this address) in an impressively plush and rich exhibition that lacks for a bit of freshness of fruit and intrigue of flavor. A faint trace of heat further deprives this of a sense of definition or refreshment in the finish. That noted, in its style and as far as it goes, this is impressive. I might have seen this at an awkward moment, and it should be revisited from bottle in the course of 2010 to assure a fair assessment of its further potential. The 2001 - tasted soon after - was fascinatingly floral, smoky, decadent yet full of finesse and fully transparent to nuance, strongly suggesting to be that I need to learn more about how Charlopin's wines age. Philippe Charlopin is known for his outgoing personality, which applies also to the wines of his domaine spread over more than two dozen appellations, an astonishing nine of which are grand crus. Elevage is long here, and when I last tasted his 2006s with Charlopin in Spring 2008, none had yet been bottled.Various importers, including The Country Vintner, Ashland, VA 23005; tel. (804) 752-3670 and Elite Wines, Lorton VA; tel. (703) 339-8150 and Wine Imports, Ltd., San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 451-2520
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