Usseglio's 1998 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Girard is a 400-case lot selected by importer Peter Weygandt and bottled unfiltered. It is distinguished by the fact that it has the words "Cuvee Girard" in the upper part of the label. This cuvee of 1998 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Girard (70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and 10% Mourvedre) exhibits a dense ruby/purple color in addition to a terrific bouquet of black fruits, earth, pepper, licorice, and kirsch. Full-bodied, structured, and tannic, this dense, multilayered wine, produced from extremely small yields of 28 hectoliters per hectare, achieved 14.2% natural alcohol. As indicated, it was bottled without filtration, and also without fining. It requires 2-3 years of cellaring, and should last for two decades. Interestingly, importer Peter Weygandt said Raymond Usseglio told him he believes "filtration takes 25% out of the wine," but that his "French clients will not accept any sediment." Ummm! Importer: Peter Weygandt, Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel (610) 486-0800