The 2008 Pinot Noir Casteel Reserve is a blend of the winery’s best barrels. The process of selection must have been quite a task given the raw materials. The expressive bouquet of sandalwood, Asian spices, underbrush, rose petal, incense, and assorted black fruits leaps from the glass. On the palate it displays dense, succulent fruit, outstanding volume, precision, and balance. Give it 5-6 years in the cellar and drink it through 2028. Bethel Heights’ most recent collection is uniformly outstanding. Tel. (503) 581-2262; www.bethelheights.com