The 2006 Dogliani Vigna Tecc (Dolcetto) is a deep, dense wine loaded with masses of dark fruit, melted road tar, spices and sweet toasted oak. This sumptuous, opulent wine offers outstanding length and tons of style.Anticipated maturity: 2008-2014. At the risk of sounding like a broken record, it is hard to think of another estate that has made such huge strides in quality over the last few years as Einaudi. This beautiful property is located in Dogliani, so it can’t be too surprising that the Dolcettos are particularly strong. Readers should note that the new Dogliani DOCG is now used for wines that meet certain technical and aging requirements, but the grape used is still Dolcetto.Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

This hearty red is in a charm-challenged state with chunky tannins dominating the raspberry fruit. The surprising concentration and long finish promise much however. Two years in the cellar will allow the fruit to open up and the tannins to fall in line.——W.E.(2/1/2010)—— 89