Einaudi’s 2008 Dogliani Vigna Tecc (Dolcetto) shows good varietal character, but is a touch diffuse in this vintage, with less of the focus and depth of the best years. The mid-weight, vinous style makes this a Vigna Tecc best suited to near-term drinking. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2013. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

This historic estate in Piedmont delivers a clean, simple and youthful Dolcetto (packaged in a very elegant bottle). There’s a pretty mix here of mineral aromas as well as black fruit and juicy blueberry. The wine is well concentrated and thick and offers a raw, gritty quality on the tannins.——M.L.(9/1/2010)—— 89