Reductive, rubbery and closed at first, this wine breathes into life, with cranberry and tart berry fruit augmented with hints of butter and spice. In terms of style and weight, it could pass for a Beaujolais from a cooler vintage. It’s a wine to drink chilled, and it would be fine as an accompaniment to roasted chicken or turkey. ——P.G.(12/15/2008)—— 84