While the regular cuvée displays honeyed ripeness, Gripa's 2019 Saint Joseph Blanc Le Berceau—old-vine Marsanne from the lieu-dit Saint-Joseph in Tournon—features scents of crushed stone, pencil shavings and citrusy fruit. Entirely barrel fermented and aged, it's medium to full-bodied, concentrated and shows ample length and freshness on the finish. I've been deliberately conservative with my aging estimate but wouldn't be surprised to see this drink well for a decade or more. It's certainly among the top white wines from the appellation.
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