There’s something tight and minerally and acidic about this Chardonnay that will appeal to connoisseurs of austere wines. Even though the oak is nearly one-half new, the wine has a lean, lemony taste, with nuances of creme brulee and roasted hazelnuts. Defines food-friendly elegance, and could develop bottle complexity over the next 5 years.——S.H.(9/1/2008)—— 91