Among the numerous Brundlmayer reds I tasted on this occasion, the 2001 St. Laurent Ladner – with notably low 12% alcohol – offered scents and flavors of cherry jam, brown spices, and leather, finishing satisfyingly with a salty, beef bouillon character and high toned cherry and spice. The 2003 was naturally riper, but not much higher in alcohol, more sweetly aromatic, but less clear. Also reviewed 2005 Gruner Veltliner Kamptaler Terrassen ($21.00; 85), 2005 Gruner Veltliner Berg Vogelsang ($16.00; 85), 2005 Gruner Veltliner Alte Reben ($42.00; 86+?), 2005 Gruner Veltliner Kaferberg ($62.00; 86), 2005 Riesling Kamptaler Terrassen ($23.00; 85), 2005 Riesling Steinmassel ($30.00; 86), 2003 St. Laurent Ladner (unknown; 86).Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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