A real curiosity in the shape of the 2009 Les Tallades de Cal Nicolau, this 100% Picapoll Negre is from 132-year-old vines, i.e., just before phylloxera. It has a very sensual, quite profound bouquet that is taciturn at first, but unfurls beautifully to reveal pure wild strawberry and raspberry aromas infused with espresso, minerals and liquorice. The palate is medium-bodied with a very composed entry. The tannins are neat and tidy, a crisp thread of acidity lending it linearity, almost conservatism. But I love the focus and symmetry here, a wine that is saving everything up for those who can resist its temptations and cellar it for 3-4 years. What an intellectual and sensorial wine. Drink 2014-2025.
I had never heard of Orto Vins before I tasted through their range. I was impressed by both the consistency and by their pursuit of single varietal bottlings that might come at a price, but satisfy the curiosity of those who enjoy foraging for lesser known grapes. I thought their wines were extremely well-made and packaged.
Importer: Peninsula Wines, NY; tel. (914) 740-4724
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