The 2007 Cotes du Rhone-Villages Cairanne l’Ancestrale du Puits exhibits an earthy, spicy, garrigue-dominated character with the southern Rhone’s peppery, dusty, resiny notes more evident than the extravagant fruit provided by this vintage. This cuvee may be somewhat controversial among consumers. As I have written in the past, this biodynamically farmed estate is a treasure-trove of excellent as well as value-priced wines. Proprietor Daniel Boulle offers a multitude of cuvees, and his 2007s seem to hit all the sweet spots on the palate.Importer: Peter Weygandt, Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800