The 1997 Sangiovese di Romagna Aulente is ambitious (barrel aging and lower yields), but lacks charm and exuberant, gutsy fruit. Nevertheless, there is attractive spice, black cherry fruit, tobacco, and new saddle leather notes in this medium-bodied, robust Sangiovese. This unfiltered offering was made by the famed Umbrian oenologist, Riccardo Cotarella. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620