The estate’s 2009 Langhe Chardonnay Bussiador bursts from the glass with layers of rich, tropical fruit, spices, popcorn and butter. The Bussiador is unquestionably a well-made wine, but naturally not in any way representative of Piemonte. Bussiador has a huge following, but frankly I don’t get it. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. The recent passing of Aldo Conterno after a long bout with illness left a huge void in Piemonte. I still remember the first time I met Conterno. His extraordinary sense of dignity left a lasting impression. Conterno’s three sons have been in charge of the winery for some time, but it is still impossible not to feel the loss of a man who did so much for the image of Piemonte around the world. Importer: Massanois Imports, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 470-6769