This is a white wine for red wine lovers. Full-bodied, almost heavy, the wine is enormously rich in fruit flavors that taste oven-baked. One hundred percent barrel fermentation, partially in new oak, makes it even bigger. It’s an unusual, even eccentric, PG. Still, Babcock’s regular 05 PG, at almost half the price, is fresher and more appealing. ——S.H.(11/15/2006)—— 89