A secret of Santa Rita Hills is how kind the terroir is to Pinot Grigio AKA Pinot Gris. Babcock expresses its crisply acidic, long hangtime varietal flavors in an unoaked way, with splendid citrus and tropical fruit flavors, girded by a steely minerality. The wine, by the way, is dry, although it has a honeyed richness. ——S.H.(10/1/2010)—— 88