Philippe Foreau Domaine du Clos Naudin Vouvray Moelleux, Loire, France

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While 1993 is no 1990 or 1989, Foreau has shown what a brilliant producer can accomplish in a troublesome vintage. The 1993 Vouvray Moelleux is more conventional than the 1993 Vouvray Demi-Sec in its lavish display of honeyed tangerines and intense floral scents intertwined with vague notes of butter and minerals. The wine possesses exceptional focus, high acidity, great fruit and concentration, and a tight but gorgeously long finish. It is capable of lasting 15-20 years, although I suspect most of it will be drunk in its first 5-6 years of life. Importer: Neal Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Shekomeko, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990.