Overtly gassy and meaty at first, and requiring too long to lose that offputting quality. Once that funkiness passes, however, firm and rich plum and cherry fruit rises up. The tannins are tight and the drive is there. This is major league Dolcetto, but there is simply too much challenging the wine; it’s not friendly like it should be. ——M.S.(12/15/2003)—— 84