Aromas of light reduction dissipate to reveal notes of crisp green orchard fruit, wheat toast, iodine and dried white flowers, introducing Jobard's 2017 Meursault 1er Cru Genevrières, a medium to full-bodied, satiny and enveloping wine that's concentrated and incisive, its deep and layered core girdled with racy acids. Long, penetrating and saline, this is a brilliant Genevrières that's more voluminous than the Poruzot and more elegant than the Charmes—and while it's hard to pick a favorite between the Jobard "big three," this gets my vote this year.