Given a hard act to follow in the 2004, Baumard’s 2005 Quarts de Chaume displays the most obviously botrytized, white raisin, and shriveled fruit character of any of their recent wines that I tasted. Over-ripe melon and pear, candied grapefruit, marzipan and raisin are accented by brown spices and herbal candy notes. Impressively lush and long, this should evolve interestingly over up to two decades, but will doubtless remain relatively plump and baroque in character. Importer: Ex Cellars wine Agencies, Cambridge, MA; tel. (617) 876-5105

A jaw dropper, with orange blossom, persimmon, fig and quince flavors that remain remarkably bright and light thanks to riveting acidity and a superfine, minerally finish. Pure and perfectly balanced, this refuses to break down in the mouth. The best since the monster 1995. Drink now through 2032. 1,200 cases made.??–JM??Region: France / Loire / Quarts de Chaume Select to Add

From arguably the finest sweet wine vineyard in the Loire, here is a wine that is deceptively fresh on first taste. Then the huge richness kicks in, balanced with blood oranges, white fig and pear flavors, and a mineral character. Complex, this needs many years to develop; superb.——R.V.(10/1/2007)—— 95