The 2009 Chardonnay Thieriot is the earthiest and most mineral-driven of the 2009 Chardonnays. Slate, crushed rocks, lemon, grapefruit and white flowers are some of the many notes that emerge from this wine. Don’t look for size here, this is all about detail, nuance and class. It is without question one of the very finest Chardonnays of the vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2019. I was totally blown away by the wines I tasted with proprietor Ted Lemon. These are some of the most refined, polished Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs being made in California today. I can’t recommend the wines highly enough. Lemon describes 2009 as a mild season with prolonged bloom that resulted in considerable shatter and a high amount of shot berries. There was no real heat to speak of in September. The 2010s were harvested during the first two weeks of October, much later than the 2009s. I also tasted a handful of 2010 Pinots from tank that appear promising, even if stylistically they aren’t as generous as the 2009s. Tel. (707) 823-9586; www.littorai.com