Copious wafts of powerfully smoky botrytis and minerals emanate from the glass of the 2003 Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese Zeltinger Sonnenuhr. As rich as it is expensive, this oily-textured (almost viscous) wine is plush, suave, and densely packed with apricots, white peach compote, and spiced super-ripe fruits. It is immense, mouth-coating, and lavish... and while time may civilize this boldly sweet jam of a wine, it comes across as perhaps too much of a good thing. Projected maturity: 2010-2040. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300