The 2005 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Auslese reflects the significant jump in must weight (already here on the border of B.A.), extract and acidity that set in as Zilliken’s fruit began to shrivel under the effects of warm, early October breezes. Mango, grapefruit, apple, and white raisin aromas lead to a lush yet bright palate and an intense – if at present rather single-mindedly citric – finish. Also recommended: 2005 Riesling ($16.00; 85+?).Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. 800-596-9463