The 2009 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Blanchots Dessus offers up ripe apricots, smoke and minerals, all of which are supported by an insistent vein of minerality. The Blanchots Dessus impresses for its overall harmony, poise and the inimitable personality that is the hallmark of this site that abuts Montrachet. This takes some time to open up, but when it does there is no shortage of pedigree and character. I especially like the depth and intensity here. Anticipated maturity: 2013+.
Vincent Girardin is among the producers who have made the most dramatic changes in response to the issue of premature oxidation. Girardin has increased the amount of time his wines spend on their lees, has lowered new oak, has eliminated batonnage and has basically re-built his entire approach from the bottom up, which I have to say, is quite impressive. The 2009s were harvested beginning on September 15, with natural alcohols in the 12.5-13% range. The wines were bottled between mid-March and mid-May 2011. Today the 2009s are quite fresh and still showing some of the effects of their recent bottling. It is safe to say the wines Girardin is making today are quite different from those of the past.
Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802
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