Tardieu-Laurent fashioned a great 1994 Hermitage. Unfortunately, only 25 cases (one barrel) were produced. Purchased from a well-known grower who owns parcels of Les Beaumes and Diongieres, the wine possesses a dense purple color, and a sweet, expansive nose of jammy cassis, minerals, and licorice. Full-bodied, with dazzling richness and fruit, plenty of glycerin, and a chewy, full-bodied, appealing texture, this is a beautifully made, tannic, accessible Hermitage that should be at its peak in 5-6 years and keep for two decades. The wines of Tardieu-Laurent are represented by Paris-based broker, Patrick Lesec, (Paris fax # 011 33 1 42843822), various American importers