The 2004 Barolo La Villa initially comes across as more restrained than the La Rosa. It possesses notable delineation in its aromas and flavors, with lively notes of minerality that frame the ripe dark fruit and French oak. This medium-bodied Barolo offers outstanding balance, if not the level of excitement I had hoped for in the 2004 vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2022. Despite having changed its ownership structure recently there is sadly little reason to hope that Fontanafredda will ever right its ship as the estate is saddled with legacy issues that make it very difficult to compete in today’s environment. This is an underwhelming set of wines, especially considering the superb vineyards the estate owns.Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

Planted in 1977, these historic vineyards produce a meaty and intense wine with deep tones of black fruit and an austere, brooding personality. Thick flavors of plum, black cherry, roasted almond, licorice and Christmas spice glide over the palate. It’s a chewy, succulent wine with a long cola-like finish.——M.L.(4/1/2009)—— 91