The Groffier 2006 Chambertin Clos De Beze smells beguilingly and site-typically of rose petals and licorice, dark berries and game. It reflects the challenges of hail in a certain leanness, but is well-concentrated and handsomely lean. Like the Bonnes Mares, one wonders whether this will fill-out with some time in bottle. Insistently pure-fruited, vigorously penetrating, and transparent to spice, carnal, and stony nuances, it certainly promises at least a dozen years of further fascination, and would probably be best left untouched for the next 3-4 years.The 2006 Groffier collection – from fruit picked beginning September 23, and in only four days – was noticeably lower in alcohol than a number of recent predecessors, and was diminished by one-third vis-a-vis 2005, after botrytis- and hail-affected berries had been culled.A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93, also imported by Atherton Imports, Menlo Park, CA; sales@awiwine.com