A big, hickory-scented, smoky, bacon fat, ripe, plummy bouquet seems to gush from a glass of this dark garnet-colored Cornas. More open and advanced than other wines from this vintage, Voge's Cornas shows plenty of ripe fruit, full body, excellent concentration, and another decade of cellaring potential. It is especially well balanced for a 1983. Anticipated maturity: now-2005. Last tasted 11/95.