The 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee des Felix has a dark plum/purple color and exhibits a nose of beef blood, incense, resin, blackberry, cassis, and again, plenty of truffle. This wine displays terrific intensity, medium to full body, and beautiful acidity and overall equilibrium. It is a blend of 65% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 15% Mourvedre, and 5% grapes from other parts of the region. It is still young and broodingly backward, so give it 2-3 years of bottle age and drink it over the following 15 years.The Versino brothers have produced three cuvees in 2007. 2006 is a very strong vintage for Bois de Boursan.Importer: J & R Selections, Lansing, MI; tel. (517) 772-3695, Arbor Way Imports, Boston, MA; tel. (71) 863-1753; and Louis/Dressner, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334-8191

In the same ballpark at the 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape, yet just marginally more fresh and concentrated, the 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee des Felix gives up ample dark fruits, peppery herbs, creosote and licorice notes in a medium-bodied, balanced, classical style. The traditional cuvee has more charm at present, but this should open up more with another year or two in bottle. Still, the classic cuvee is the sure bet.