Back in the ‘70s, this winery specialized in Merlot and helped put it on the fine wine map. This wine, in a thick, heavy bottle, is elegant, complex and probably ageable. It’s fairly tannic, but possesses a molten core of cherry and mocha fruit and a lilting balance that bode well for the future. Now through 2010.——S.H.(4/1/2005)—— 94