The 2006 Barolo Cannubbio is fabulous. Roses, sweet spices, dark cherries, minerals and licorice are some of the notes that emerge from this deceptively medium-bodied Barolo. Cannubi is the most famous hillside in Barolo for a number of reasons, not the least of which is a unique terrain where the two main soil types of the Langhe – the sandier composition of the western part of the zone and the more compact terrain of the eastern parts – are found in alternating layers. Rinaldi’s Cannubbio captures the floral qualities of Nebbiolo but with surprising muscle to back things up. There is a very slight hint of sweet spice on the finish that suggest at least part of the barrels are relatively new. Those subtle tones should dissipate over time. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2031. The transformation that has taken place at Francesco Rinaldi over the last few years is truly remarkable. It wasn’t that long ago that the wines were harsh, lean and excessively austere, even within the context of traditionally made Barolo. Not any more. Today’s wines are cut with beautiful precision and show exceptional harmony. Even better, they won’t take decades to come around. Importers: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404; Vinity Wine Company, Emeryville, CA; tel. (510) 601-6010; Triage Wines Inc., Seattle, WA; tel. (503) 236-6262; World Wide Cellars, Minneapolis, MN; tel. (612) 378-0025; Classic Wine Company, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 871-9463

There’s a firmly elegant and traditional aspect to this ruby-hued Barolo that suggests a pairing with something like bacon-wrapped scallops: in other words, a dish that is textured, delicate and aromatically intense at the same time. The bouquet here is redolent of violets, white cherry, spice and powdered licorice.——M.L.(12/1/2010)—— 90