The effusively fruity 2007 Pinot Gris Kessler offers scents and flavors of pineapple, coconut, peach, and Persian melon. Lush and sweet, polished and soft, it evinces a surprising sense of lift and a vital stream of primary juiciness, although these are no match for the wine’s residual sugar in its finish. Plan on drinking this over the next 6-8 years. Among the largest estates in Alsace and the largest holder of grand cru acreage, Domaines Schlumberger have been prominent in international markets for years, and were long known best for their nobly sweet wines, a specialty of this house during a time when V.T. and S.G.N. bottlings were not remotely as common as they are today. I have found the style somewhat ponderous, opaque, and indistinct, but reports that things had lightened up and clarified under the direction of siblings Severine and Thomas Schlumberger were correct. I could not recommend all of the modest cross-section of samples I received, but some were excellent. Despite what the Schlumbergers report as low yields, several wines I tasted wanted for concentration and personality, some were still a bit diffuse, and the Rieslings among them struck me as surprisingly developed considering their youthful chronological ages. These wines rather routinely undergo malo-lactic transformation, and in a couple of instances exhibited an overly lactic tone.Importer: Maisons, Marques, & Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 286 2000
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