Bert Selbach’s 2008 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese is scented with honeysuckle, heliotrope, and fresh apple. Smooth and glossy yet delicate on the palate – adding suggestions of musk melon and a honeyed nod in the direction of botrytis – it offers a soothing if less animated impression than the corresponding Domprobst. But there is an admirable sense of clarity here to stony finishing nuances, a lovely richness, as well as more than sufficient refreshment that should not dim for a dozen or more years. Bert Selbach is another of those Mosel traditionalists for whom the opportunities afforded by the 2008 vintage to achieve low-alcohol, delicate wines was welcome, and the results are classics of their types, at the highly-affordable prices that always characterize this frequently under-rated estate.Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. 800 596 9463