Quintarelli's 1997 Alzero is a masterpiece. Blessed with extraordinary, captivating aromatics, it reveals new layers of spice, licorice, coffee, chocolate, cassis, minerals and sweet dark fruit with each successive taste. What I find most remarkable about this wine is that, despite being packed with jammy, concentrated fruit, it is remarkably light on its feet. It is a wine I never tire of tasting and is not to be missed. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2017. One of my regrets is not having spent time with Giuseppe Quintarelli when he was in his prime. His 1983 Recioto remains one of the greatest wines I have ever tasted. Today the estate is run by Quintarelli's numerous children and grandchildren. It's not too hard to observe what can only be called a lack of direction, not to mention a cavalier attitude that is a clear sign of an estate that finds it easier to coast on its reputation rather than continue to strive towards excellence. While many of the current releases are outstanding, the future appears much less certain. However, the best wines are phenomenal and are likely to remain objects of desire among the world's most well-heeled collectors. Pricing is astronomical even at the cellar door, where virtually all of the wines in this article were purchased. Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 332-4999