Quintarelli's Alzero is one of Italy's most unique, compelling wines, particularly in top vintages, in which it can be utterly mind-blowing. Alzero is mostly Cabernet Franc, with a dollop of Merlot, made Amarone-style. The 1998 reveals compelling layers of ripe dark fruit, sweet herbs, chocolate and spices that gradually unfurl in the glass. The wine possesses gorgeous length and balance, but not the sheer opulence of the profound 1997. Aged in cask, this traditionally made, hand-crafted wine shows more volatile acidity than many wines these days, yet it also offers a totally unique drinking experience. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2028. It isn't easy to keep up with Giuseppe Quintarelli, as this legendary producer releases his wines when he feels they are ready, not a moment sooner. As is often the case, these are some of the most mind-blowing wines being made anywhere, but sadly, prices are equally dizzying. Still, for readers who can afford them, these are reference-point wines. Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 332-4999