This blows away the majority of California Merlots retailing for two or three times as much. Dried herbs accent creamy mocha and black cherries in a supple, harmonious whole that’s as true to the variety as can be. The 2001 vintage is shaping up as a great one for Spain, and here’s a chance to get in on the ground floor.——J.C.(11/15/2002)—— 87