Toasty notes in the nose of the Diel 2010 Cuvee Victor (a blend of Pinot Gris and minority Pinot Blanc, this year raised principally in a large cask, plus one barrique) rather surprisingly suggest peanuts. As the bulk of this didn’t go through malo, it isn’t surprising to note a green apple flavor which, when reinforced by lemon, lends invigoration but also a slightly awkward juxtaposition with lanolin and lactose in its finish. That said, this is certainly an interesting as well as admirably persistent wine that I could imagine might reward several years’ aging. (I have only tasted a couple of older Cuvee Victor bottlings, and while I was not especially impressed, these were wines whose inclusion of Chardonnay and upbringing entirely in barrique set them apart from the regimen the estate has more recently – and in the present instance – followed.) While her famous father Armin naturally continues as a trusted advisor, it is evident in conversation as well from continued adjustments in methodology that Caroline Diel is settling into her role as hands-on manager of this great estate, clearly positioning it as one of those lucky enough to receive the special benefits and blessings that can accrue to felicitous multi-generational collaboration. Selective double-salt de-acidification was performed here in 2010 – occasionally even in lots destined for residually sweet wines – and skin contact encouraged. Alcohol levels for this year’s Grosse Gewachse are in the moderate, 12.5-13% range.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300