Released unusually at the age of nearly five years, this Chardonnay is losing its primary fruit. It’s developing a toasted cashew and hazelnut character, and the pineapples are transmogrifying to chewy dried fruits and even Christmas fruitcake. Meanwhile the sweet, caramelized oak is fully integrated. Bravo to the winery for holding this back and letting us see what an older Sonoma Coast Chardonay does.——S.H.(8/1/2010)—— 91