You’ll need to give this young pup some years in the cellar, because as constructed, it’s tough and hard. The acids and tannins stand out, while the fruit and oak have not been integrated. But it’s an enormously rich, complicated Pinot Noir, offering tiers of cherries, currants, cola, pomegranates, licorice, orange peel and sweet smoky oak, and the texture is pure silk. Better after 2011 and through 2014.——S.H.(12/31/2009)—— 94