The 2017 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes wafts from the glass with aromas of raspberries, cherries, citrus peel, rich soil and warm spices, subtly framed by creamy new oak. On the palate, it's full-bodied, with the most depth, dimension and amplitude of any wine in the cellar, its juicy core of fruit entirely cloaking is fine structuring tannins. One of the best renditions of this vineyard I tasted in 2017, it's a very impressive wine.