The 1998 Riesling Gaisberg Alte Reben has a creamy mocha-scented nose. Botrytis, minerals, and spices are found in this appealing offering's personality. Its finish is cut short by the dryness of the dusty botrytis, yet it is a delicious, flavorful, refreshing wine for drinking in the near term. Projected maturity: Now-2006. This 20 hectare (49.4 acre) estate abandoned chemical fertilizers over 25 years ago, replacing them with sheep manure.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Martin Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300