The 2004 Riesling Gaisberg displays lemon, orange, fennel, and pungent wood smoke and crushed stone aromas. Its medium bodied palate impression is compact, oily, and loaded with citrus, black fruits and minerals. The sheer intensity of finish leads to near-bitterness, but waves of juicy citrus fruits preserve the wine’s refreshment value. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

A wine that is on the cusp of adding an extra element of complexity. At present, there is deliciously perfumed fruit, white and green currants and white peaches, with a definite citrus edge. The bonus is the taut texture, which is closing in and lifting the fruit, promising future aging. Screwcap.——R.V.(8/1/2008)—— 92