The Sparr 2008 Pinot Gris Reserve offers aromas of peaches and smoked meat typical for its variety. Soft and lush if a bit loose on the palate, it happily conjoins modest (13.5%) alcohol with true dryness. Subtle salinity and meat stock suggestions mingle with the peaches in a satisfyingly sappy, faintly but invigoratingly bitter finish. Enjoy this over the next 2-3 years. The characteristic wines from the enormous house of Sparr are soft and sometimes diffuse. They can exhibit delicacy, but that can easily cross a fine line into dilution.Importer: William Deutsch & Son Ltd., White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463

After a few sulphur notes blow off, pretty vanilla and carnation aromas come forward, accented by delicate Chinese spices. There’s more subtlety in the mouth and a rich texture, with melon top notes and a dry, medium finish. Drink now. ——W.E.(6/1/2010)—— 86