The brilliant 2004 Sticks and Stones is a terrific example of what can be accomplished in this area. It boasts killer intensity as well as superb elegance, a striking minerality, and gorgeous black raspberry, framboise, cassis, kirsch, and blackberry notes. A blend of 57% Grenache, 23% Syrah, and 20% Mourvedre aged in primarily French oak, it is a complex, full-bodied, nuanced red to consume over the next decade. Readers should not forget the Linne Calodo Zinfandel-dominated wines recommended in issue #164, the 2004 Cherry Red ($48; 95 points), 2004 Leona’s ($42; 91+ points), and 2004 Problem Child ($42; 92 points). Tel. (805) 227-0797