The Hirtzberger 2005 Riesling Federspiel Steinterrassen, picked from mid-October through mid-November, smells of apricot and features the faint bitterness of apricot kernel on the palate, which impressively combines a glossy texture with bright citricity. A relatively severe but undeniably intense, salty, piquantly fruit pit-flavored finish completes the picture of a wine that will probably appeal more to Austrian fashion for sheer briskness in lighter-weight Riesling than it will to most American Riesling lovers. Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Steinfeder Donaugarten (not available; 85).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700