The 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Champoux Vineyard is the most expressive of the Cabernets. Opaque purple, it has a superb bouquet of toasty oak, smoke, spice box, black currant, blackberry, and plum. Full-bodied and layered, it will develop for another 4-6 years. It, too, combines power with elegance. Since I saw him last year, Mike Januik has moved into a splendid new winery in Woodinville which he shares with Novelty Hill Winery for whom he makes the wines. Current production is at 8000 cases. Tel. (425) 481-5502; www.januikwinery.com

The wine is tight, sharp, aromatic, tart and juicy, with dry tannins that take over quickly. Though quite acidic for this vineyard, it displays classic Champoux fruit flavors of Bing cherry, blueberry and cassis. It’s drinking beautifully, smooth and supple, finishing with a balanced mix of mocha and coconut.——P.G.(12/31/2008)—— 91