Revisited in bottle, Lamy's 2019 Criots-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru Haute Densité has turned out even better than I predicted. Unfurling in the glass with aromas of orange oil, pear, freshly baked bread, beeswax, dried white flowers and stone fruit pits, this profound white Burgundy is full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, with prodigious reserves of concentration and chalky structuring extract, racy acids and a long, resonant finish. Seamless and complete, this is a monument in the making.