The 2020 Criots-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru Haute Densité is a worthy follow-up to the stunning 2019. Wafting from the glass with aromas of lime zest, white flowers, crisp stone fruit, wet stones and youthful reduction, it's full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, its satiny attack segueing into a layered, tightly wound mid-palate that's built around racy acids and chalky extract. Concluding with a long, resonant finish, this is one of the most exciting wines being produced in contemporary Burgundy.