The Cathiard 2005 Romanee-St.-Vivant evinces aromas and flavors of ripe cassis and black raspberry, tinged with pepper, clove, star anise, iris, and citrus rind. Lush and enveloping on the palate, with a flattering, creamy texture, this trades a bit of the clarity that other wines displayed here today for sheer richness and ripeness of finish. But the length certainly bespeaks grand cru. Also recommended: 2005 Bourgogne ($39.00;85). A Becky Wassserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet, Beaune; fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70