Demure scents of delicate spices, fresh herbs, and white flowers can be discerned in the nose of the 2003 Bienvenue-Batard-Montrachet (white). Silky-textured on the attack, this light to medium-bodied wine displays excellent depth to its spicy, mineral-laced fruit. Like the Charmes, this offering’s finish tapers off too quickly for a better score. It should be drunk over the next 4-5 years. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

The density is hidden by a creamy texture, with citrus shadings that lend freshness. Pastry, citronella and hazelnut notes combine with the opulent texture and volume for a hedonist's delight. Really lingers nicely on the finish. Drink now through 2012. 42 cases made.